The Diel 2008 Pinot Noir Cuvee Caroline was raised in barriques one-third of which were new. (The 2006 had been in 70% new wood!) This offers a lovely layering of kirsch distillate; marzipan; fresh dark cherry and blueberry; and a broth-like underlying carnal element. Marjoram-like herbal pungency; peat-like smokiness; suggestions of crushed stone; and a lip-smackingly savory salinity all render this silken-textured and happily also refreshing Pinot worthy of at least a half dozen years’ further attention.
Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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