Consistent with the past two vintages, this wine hits with a huge blast of oaky char and coffee on top of black fruit, olive and leather. It’s fairly edgy in the mouth, pushing up against tart and snappy. That said, the flavors of cherry, blackberry and olive are straight from the textbook. Finishes abruptly, with another shot of bracing acids. Ultimately it’s the toast and sheering quality that stand out.——M.S.(5/1/2009)—— 86