The Meursault en L'Ormeau's vineyard produced some very impressive wines in 1996, which Coche attributes to its excellent drainage (when I visited it I was surprised that I was able to get covered with mud in this all-gravel vineyard). This offering has flowers, earth, and orange peel aromatics and a very structured, medium-bodied, broad, wild mushroom and stone-flavored character with excellent underlying richness. Projected maturity: 2001-2004. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.Coche believes in being both the last to harvest and the last to bottle, two philosophies that paid dividends in 1996. "The Coches prune short," was the proud reply to my question about yields. The wines were subjected to a regular batonnage every 8 days until January, and then once a month.Overall, these offerings have excellent richness and depth as well as vibrant and piercing acidity. If patiently cellared, I am convinced these beauties will blossom into delicious, complex, and highly nuanced wines.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.
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