With attractive packaging and a heavy glass bottle, this is a handsome wine from a very difficult growing season. The Paolo Conterno 2014 Barolo Ginestra Riserva is proper and tight with ethereal aromas of small berry fruit, smoke, tar and old spice. These elements take a little extra time to align and come into focus as the wine slowly opens in the glass. Tart cherry and sharp freshness give the wine a lively finish. Only 4,000 bottles were put aside for this late release.