The 2003 Barbaresco Cotta is, as usual, the most overtly fruit-driven of the wines. It offers a rich, luxurious texture and a potent expression of this site and the vintage with enough super-ripe dark fruit to balance the wine’s considerable tannic clout. As it sits in the glass balsamic, mentholated nuances emerge to complete this very strong effort. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411