Vividly fresh red raspberry, blackberry, and rhubarb scent the Vissoux 2009 Fleurie Poncie, marking a striking contrast with the fruit character of its Brouilly stable mate. The high altitude and southeasterly inclination encourages a sense of refreshment and energy that – for all of their manifest virtues – one often seeks in vain among Beaujolais’s 2009s. Yet this is also silken in texture and its stimulating length tartly seductive, with salt, meat broth, and mint adding complexity. Plan on enjoying this over a 4-5 year period. Incidentally, it harbors only 13.2% alcohol. Pierre Chermette – for more about whom, consult my report in issue 184 – picked his crus from September 7-15 and his vines in the South of Beaujolais the week following, managing to keep alcohols below 13.5%.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800