The 2007 Fleurie Poncie smells intensely of fresh black raspberry and cassis, along with hints of wood smoke and salt spray. Positively palate-staining, its intense berry concentrate laced with saline, stony, iodine and peat notes, and its abundant tannins impeccably fine-grained, this superbly concentrated Beaujolais beautifully demonstrates why there is something called “cru Beaujolais” Give it a year in bottle and then enjoy over the subsequent 2-3 years. (The 2006 version of this wine was sinewy and concentrated, but quite tight when tasted shortly before bottling, and I did not have opportunity to revisit it.) From his base in southern Beaujolais, Pierre Chermette (like nearby Jean-Paul Brun) has become one of the beacons of Beaujolais quality, as well as a landholder in the “crus” of northern Beaujolais. (Since his label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800