Domaine du Mas Blanc Collioure Les Junquets, Languedoc-Roussilloon, France

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Parce claims to serve his Clos du Moulin with fish, but I could even more easily imagine that being said about his 2004 Collioure les Junquets – unorthodox in its dependence on Syrah and granite, as well as its 5% each of Roussanne and Marsanne – which displays a stunningly complex and unusual nose of kelp, coffee, dried cherries, peat, herbs, and shrimp shell, offering juicy, surprisingly bright fruit and saline-iodine and smoky mineral nuances. It is not in the least heavy or thick, but instead refined and positively invigorating in its finish combining pure black cherry, iodine, peat, and mineral salts. It should age nicely for at least 5-7 years. The often amazingly complex and always amazingly chocolate-friendly fortified Grenache-based wines of Banyuls (or their dry counterparts from neighboring Collioure) would until recently have remained little-known to Americans had it not been for the Domaine du Mas Blanc of Dr. Parce, where quality has not dipped over at least the past quarter century (since I began tasting them).Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802