The 2004 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, poured from magnum, has a deep garnet color. It feels stubborn and obdurate on the nose, as Clos des Ducs can do, with blackcurrant leaf and subtle marine influences that become more pronounced with aeration. The palate is supple on the entry with fine tannins and good substance. Succulent dark cherries intermix with red plum and Earl Grey tea towards the structured finish. Very fine. Drink now-2020.