Displaying dark cherry and spice aromas, the ruby-colored Gevrey-Chambertin is packed with Asian spices, cherry and strawberry flavors. Medium-bodied and well-balanced, it is a silky-textured, slightly chewy wine. Projected maturity: 1999-2004. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. As I tasted through Drouhin's offerings of 1995 red burgundies, I was struck by just how differently each terroir expressed itself. Generally, in truly great vintages ('85 and '90 in Burgundy and '82 and '90 in Bordeaux), young reds, at least when young, tend to express vintage characteristics more than individual terroirs. 1995 is an outstanding vintage, just below the quality of '85 and '90. However, the terroir characteristics of the 1995s are very evident, especially at Maison Joseph Drouhin. Perhaps the tight, concentrated fruit that characterizes 1995 allows more room for the terroir to show itself (as opposed to '85 and '90's lush forward, expressive fruit). Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.