This bottle of 1998 Meursault Les Vireuils from Jean-Marc Roulot is far better than the one tasted at the domaine last year. It is initially a little smudged and musty on the nose, which may be the reason it threw me last time. But it's just toying with you. Over the period of 30 minutes it tucks its shirt in, combs its hair and reveals a hidden seam of cold wet limestone on the nose that lends it a Puligny-like personality. The palate similarly gains more and more delineation, more precision as it aerates, with pin-point acidity and gorgeous lime and fumé notes on the persistent finish. This is a Meursault that tests your patience, so do not be afraid to open a bottle an hour before pouring. Excellent.