Boasting sheer beauty and might, the 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Il Bosco is a highlight of the Valpolicella. Il Bosco is a five-hectare vineyard at 150 meters above sea level near Castelrotto with 20-year-old, high-density vines. The vineyard consists of 80% Covina and 20% Rondinella. This type-A wine shows gorgeous notes of chocolate, vanilla coffee, smoked ham and tobacco. Fruit notes include creme de cassis and dried plum or fig. It finished rich and toasty with succulence and extreme balance. I would wait another few years before opening this bottle. It will award those who wait. Drink 2015-2028. I am surprised to discover that Cesari has not been previously reviewed in The Wine Advocate. Deborah Cesari and her father Franco now run the company founded by grandfather Gerardo Cesari in 1936. They own vineyards in Valpolicella and Lugana with four historic single-vineyard sites: Bosan, Bosco, Jema and Centofilari. They just bought three more hectares in San Ciriaco Negrar. The house style, executed by enologist Luigi Biemmi, definitely veers toward the international side of the Amarone spectrum (medium-toast French barrique is preferred). But their wines are exceptionally clean and balanced, revealing unique personalities across the board. In the ten years I have tasted Cesari, I don’t remember finding the overtly raisiny or oxidative qualities you sometimes get with Amarone. This flight with excellent picks from the 2010, 2009, 2007 and 2005 vintages make for an impressive debut in these pages. Importers: Opici Wine Company, www.opici.com; Siena Imports, www.sienaimports.com

This lightly spicy version offers a smoky base note, with accents of grilled plum, raspberry puree, dried herb and sous-bois. Medium-bodied and grippy, offering a moderate finish. Drink now through 2022. 2,500 cases made.??–AN??Region: Italy / Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Select to Add