The Fallers’ 2005 Sylvaner Reserve – mostly from within their Clos des Capucins along the little river Weiss, and otherwise from very nearby – offers a veritable greenhouse of subtly-scented leafy things in the nose, fills the mouth with juicy citrus accompanied by herbs and flowers, and finishes with satisfying refreshment and a hint of bitterness. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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