The 1994 Sylvaner Reserve is from a varietal that I rarely find interesting. However, in the capable hands of a few top estates, including Domaine Weinbach, it takes on more personality and intensity, offering a dry, muscular, uncomplex yet satisfying, mouthfilling wine. It is a wine to be drunk up within a year of its release for its uncomplicated fruit. There has been no shortage of great vintages for Domaine Weinbach. 1989 and 1990 are the finest recent vintages prior to 1994, and this estate turned out extremely strong 1992s and 1993s. The 1994s offer a dazzling combination of power, high extraction, and vibrant, well-integrated acidity, making them strikingly intense, beautifully structured wines. This domaine consistently has conservative crop yields. For example, in 1994 the French government permitted 80 hectoliters per hectare, but Domaine Weinbach averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare. The estate's harvest began on September 20th and finished on November 18th. Kudos to the Fallers, who once again have turned out exquisite wines.The 1994 wines reviewed in this issue were tasted in December, 1995.Domaine Weinbach is imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc. (Robert Haas Selections), Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139
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