At first sniff, this seems overly oaky, stuffed with vanilla, cedar and wood spice, but give it a chance. As it sits in the glass, the fruit begins to emerge, and on the palate, there’s ample berry fruit to complement the lavish oak. It’s creamy and richly textured, with a layered, vanilla-like finish. Drink now–2012.——J.C.(5/1/2007)—— 91