Winemaker Stuart Blackwell calls this Shiraz “noisy...the adolescent boy who says, ‘Look at me!’” Calling it noisy, or boisterous, is a good call: It has pretty loud, dark, black cherry and plum fruit without a lot of oak or earth to muck it up. Simple? No. Just hold on tight and let the bold fruit take you for a ride. ——D.T.(5/1/2004)—— 90