The 2009 Reserva, part of this issue's vertical, is surprisingly restrained in terms of mid-palate richness for this big and hot vintage--not that it is exactly a wimp. With warm fruit and intense flavor, it finishes with a little bit of oak, too, and plenty of tannic pop and power. In the vertical, this would likely be the easiest to pick out blind--the nose is just a bit funky, with some roasted herbs, rhubarb, game and beef. That roasted nuance comes through loud and clear, although it is by no means as powerful and as distracting as it is on the 2003. This big boy needs food, but then it should drink well on its own terms. At this point, I personally like the understated 2008 a bit better, but there is a certain sexy component to this that makes it appealing.

Black in color, this is a big wine. It is also seriously ageworthy, with its spice and intense perfumed fruits. Tannins dominate at this stage, but the wine already shows great generosity, richness and considerable concentration. Keep the wine for at least four years.——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 93