The 2008 Reserva has one of the more elegant mid-palates in this issue's vertical--the vintage tended to produce that. If you want ethereal and understated, this lovely and subtly impressive 2008 is the way to go. It is not as obvious as some, but it is very beautiful. Finishing with some tannic pop and power, this tightly-wound wine is unevolved and in need of a little air, if opened now. It took about 75 minutes to come around. Then, it was in fine form. Its freshness, sunny demeanor and balance should allow it to age beautifully. It finishes with bursts of flavor, too.

A lovely, sophisticated wine that wears its concentration easily. A medley of black fruit flavors goes with intense spice, acidity and final mineral, tannic structure. Age for 4–5 years.——R.V.(11/1/2010)—— 92