Cassis and blackberry fill the nose from Boillot's old vines 2006 Volnay Les Brouillards (tasted from tank just before bottling) and are then joined by rich mushroom and meat stock on a palate of exuberant juiciness underlain by abundant but fine-grained tannins. Peat-like pungency and persistent hints of mushrooms inform a finish of saliva-inducing savor that – reflecting the site – seems straddle Volnay and Pommard. This has the right stuff to be worth following for 6-8 years, and is in both accessibility and quality of tannin superior to the corresponding 2005. Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Cassis and blackberry fill the nose from Boillot's old vines 2006 Volnay Les Brouillards (tasted from tank just before bottling) and are then joined by rich mushroom and meat stock on a palate of exuberant juiciness underlain by abundant but fine-grained tannins. Peat-like pungency and persistent hints of mushrooms inform a finish of saliva-inducing savor that – reflecting the site – seems straddle Volnay and Pommard. This has the right stuff to be worth following for 6-8 years, and is in both accessibility and quality of tannin superior to the corresponding 2005. Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990