From above the eponymous Pernand cru, Bize’s 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses suggests black cherry, blackberry, beet root, and high-toned distillates of black fruit on the nose. With a palate concentration approaching bitterness, this saturates the palate with black fruits, fruit pits, brown spices, beef marrow, and distinctly salty and chalky mineral suggestions. The tannins are quite refined. (And by the way, only 15% new barrels were employed.) Finishing with continued clarity and brightness as well as real grip, it makes a superb case for the inherent complexity of Savigny’s top sites. I would revisit this quintessentially darkly-hued, concentrated 2005 in only three or four years but expect it to evolve interestingly for a dozen. Malolactic fermentations took place without delay and Patrick Bize had bottled many of the wines already in November. A significant portion of whole clusters were included in most of the fermentations. Wines from this address seldom make concessions to early drinkability or cheap thrills, and the inherently concentrated, darkly toned 2005s are certainly no exception. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70.