The whole-cluster pressed 2006 Elston Chardonnay has much more sophistication: touches of beeswax and lime on the nose, superb acidity on the palate, a wine with real Burgundian flair with a hint of hazelnut on the finish. Te Mata is one of the stalwarts of Hawkes Bay; indeed its roots go back to 1892 when Bernard Chambers planted the first small vineyard. But the modern era began when English-born John Buck bought the historic estate in 1974, instigated a long-term replanting program and debuted the first Coleraine (named after his late grandfather's Irish hometown) with the legendary 1982 vintage, a wine that gained international acclaim. Head winemaker Peter Cowley joined two years later and has overseen more than twenty vintages since that time.Importer, American Estates Wines, Summit, NJ; tel. (908) 273-5060