The 1970 Lafleur has always been a muscular, big, full-bodied wine with funky, musty cellar aromas. The opaque garnet color is followed by aromas of sweet, smoky, roasted, animal, and herb aromas, combined with damp earth and Asian spices. With an undeniable coarseness and toughness (because of its astringent tannin), this is a huge, immature wine that I am not sure will ever come into complete harmony. Drink it now and over the next 20 years.

Harmonious, supple and very generous, full-bodied, with ripe tannins; perfect to enjoy now but it should last, it's almost black in color and explodes with cassis and green olive aromas and flavors.--Chateau Lafleur vertical. Drink now through 2010. -PM