The top-shelf product from Terredora di Paolo, the 2011 Taurasi Pago dei Fusi, shows depth and an important level of sophistication that gives the wine an air of contemplation and care. The experience starts off slowly with dried berry fruit, crème de cassis, spice, smoke and delicate campfire ash. The wine is linear and polished with a steady, careful approach. The tertiary definition is there, but the wine is still going strong and should hold over the course of the next decade.