The estate’s 2004 Barbaresco Marcarini, from a vineyard in Treiso, offers a distinctly more masculine personality in its expression of dark fruit, spices, menthol and minerals. A tightly coiled, structured Barbaresco, it will require another year or two in bottle before offering its most rewarding drinking. It is another strong effort from Ca’ del Baio. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. These 2004 Barbarescos are by far the finest wines I have tasted from Ca’ del Baio. Hopefully they represent a level of quality the estate will be able to maintain going forward because the wines are terrific. Ca’ del Baio is located in Treiso, but has holdings across the Barbaresco zone, including a plot in the prestigious Asili vineyard. The estate favors a soft, fruit-driven style of Barbaresco that seems best suited to mid-term drinking. Various American importers: Casa Bruno Llc, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429; Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994; Dolce e Dani Llc, Avon, CO; The Wine Messenger, New Rochelle, NY