The 2008 Dogliani Siri d’Jermu is not as huge as it sometimes is, but that doesn’t work to the wine’s detriment, if anything it allows for varietal character to emerge even more fully. This is a decidedly mid-weight, mineral-driven Siri d’Jermu with gorgeous aromatics and plenty of clean, well-delineated fruit. A vibrant, polished finish invites a second taste. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200