The 2007 Dogliani Siri d’Jermu (Dolcetto) is a rich, layered wine bursting with fruit. Made in a full-bodied style, the Siri d’Jermu possesses tons of length as well as harmony. Balsamic suggestions of menthol and sweet spices linger on the potent finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Pecchenino remains a reference point producer for wines from Dogliani. More recently, the estate’s Barolos have shown much promise as well.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

This rich and thick Dolcetto opens with an inky, dark appearance and vinous aromas of blackberry and smoked ham. What the wine lacks in complexity, it makes up for in liveliness. Thick, textured tannins help the wine achieve good persistence and endurance. Most Dolcetto is designed to be consumed immediately, but this one promises more staying power.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 89