Thierry Matrot, on August 25th, harvested his 2003 Meursault (red) at 16.3% natural potential alcohol. Despite repeated attempts at arresting fermentation (with the goal of producing a sweet wine) that incessantly failed as the yeasts were determined to finish their work, Matrot has bottled it with 16% alcohol. Containing a small amount of residual sugar (yet within the “dry” limits set by law), it brings to mind a good light to medium-bodied super-ripe California Zinfandel. Its aromatics, reminiscent of a Ruby Port-filled Cavaillon melon (fist-sized melons from the southern Rhone) lead to a satin-textured, expressive character. Spices, wild dark berries, plums, and red fruits can be found in this exotic wine. Its long finish displays a trace of alcoholic heat since it doesn’t contain enough residual sugar to hide that component (which explains Matrot’s attempts to retain sweetness). This appealing – yet strange – effort, should be consumed with cheese over the next 4-5 years.
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