The 2009 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos de Champs Martin Cuvée Carline is superb, offering up a deep bouquet of cassis, plums and spices, framed by pretty top notes of violets, raw cocoa, bergamot and peony. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's concentrated and elegantly muscular, with powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. While it's richer and broader-shouldered than the 2007, the two share a seamlessness and harmony that distinguishes them as the high points of the decade.