The Moreau 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Champgains offers musky floral scents along with an aura of chalk dust; is saline and savory as well as brimming with ripe peach and apricot; juicy and refreshing yet rich and subtly creamy in texture; and finishes with cool fresh fruit character, refreshing cut, and admirable transparency to mineral and floral nuances. This may well have more potential than the corresponding village-level bottling – perhaps 3-5 years of satisfaction – although I lack experience with this estate and there is in any case scarcely a track record under the latest generation.
With the ascendance of a new generation – Alexandre (largely in the cellar) and Benoit Moreau largely in the vineyards – the vines of the Bernard Moreau estate are getting more meticulous care and their wines gentler, longer elevage notably 6 months in tank after the wines' stay in barrel. I did not have an opportunity to visit them but was thrilled with the samples I tasted (save for a Chassagne Morgeot that was inexplicably too reduced to adequately assess, much less savor).
Imported by The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, also Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; tel: (516) 327-0808
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