While I have a slight preference for the more-structured le Clos des Fées bottling, there's no doubting the unctuous appeal of the 2015 C?tes du Roussillon Villages la Petite Sibérie. Named for its cool site planted to old bush-vine Grenache, Little Siberia is a rich, almost chocolaty wine, filled with black cherries and dusty cocoa. Bizeul tops the wine with a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, but much of the structure must come from the new French oak barrels used for aging, despite how little cedar is detectable on the nose or palate. Long and velvety on the finish, wines like this show what parts of Roussillon are capable of when pampered by impeccable vineyard and cellar work.
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