From overwhelmingly Grenache vines in a high mountain pass above Vingrau that suggested its name, the 2004 Cotes du Roussillon Villages La Petite Siberie surely represents the point at (or by) which Bizeul and his devoted wine-loving followers will have parted company with me. From its hugely ester-filled, borderline-volatile nose through its thickly-sweet and new-oaky palate presence, to its unctuous but (its name notwithstanding) decidedly warm finish, this is the very model of a modern major fruit bomb, about which I can’t help but wonder where it’s headed in the bottle and whether it will seem less over-the-top in a few years’ time. For all of this wine’s textural torpor and lavish ripeness, one can no more overlook its formidable underlying tannins than one can its 100% new oak. All that said, those sufficiently wealthy and well-placed to access this Siberian ticket will experience an amazing sheer intensity and length, as surreally sweet black fruit preserves mingle with tea, tar, and pencil lead. For me – it least in its youthful state – “Little Siberia” proves hard labor after the second sip.
Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
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