The 2009 Malbec was made from 84-year-old vines and aged for 12 months in 33% new French oak. Wood smoke, a hint of cocoa, Asian spices, incense, and black cherry compose the bouquet of this impeccably balanced, incipiently complex, layered wine. Give it 2-3 years to fully blossom and drink it from 2013 to 2021. Mendel is a partnership of renowned winemaker Roberto de la Mota and Annabelle Sielecki whose family owns the vineyards. As a postscript, while visiting the winery in October 2011, I was also shown the 2006, 2007, and 2008 vintages of Finca Remota, which have been reviewed before in these pages. They are performing as well or better than I previously reported.Importer: Vine Connections, Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 332-6466

Clipped and pruney smelling, with condensed, dull aromas. The palate is soft and mealy, with big tannins, heft and prune-like flavors. Never really finds solid ground or footing; substandard for Mendel. ——M.S.(11/1/2011)—— 84