The 2008 Malbec, sourced from ungrafted vines over 80 years of age, was aged for 12 months in 40% new French oak before bottling without fining or filtration (as are all these Mendel wines). Medium purple in color with legs that coat the glass, it reveals a lovely nose of Asian spices, incense, lavender, black cherry, and black raspberry. Supple, ripe, and round on the palate with medium- to full-body, layered fruit, and excellent balance, it has the structure to evolve for 1-2 years but can be approached now. Mendel, where the talented Roberto de la Mota presides as winemaker, has an outstanding set of new releases including one white wine.Importer: Vine Connections, Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 332-8466; fax (415) 332-8668

By all accounts, 2008 was a tough vintage with cool weather, stunting frosts and ripeness issues. This wine seems afflicted: its opening is good, with coconut and floral shadings. But the palate is limited in richness and the flavors are standard, with char and barrel notes creating bitterness. Nice and honest for a subpar year. ——M.S.(3/1/2011)—— 87