Domaine Dirler-Cade Riesling Kessler, Alsace Grand Cru, France

凱德酒莊凱特勒雷司令半干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：3807

Dirlers’ 2008 Riesling Kessler Heisse Wanne represents a big jump in fruit generosity – white peach and grapefruit – but at the same time in diversity and intensity of mineral elements, including fusil, peaty, saline, and alkaline shadings. Pungent rosemary and effusive elder flower add allure to a subtly oily, glycerin-rich, palpably dense, yet also refreshing and invigorating palate whose seemingly salt-crusted, lemon laced, yet richly lobster shell-infused finish leaves the tongue quivery in anticipation of the next sip. This “hot tub” is definitely a place where I’d like to linger repeatedly over the next 15-20 years, though don’t think for a minute that the name which describes this particular heat trap in the Kessler also suggests the effect that a glass of its wine will have on you! As usual chez Dirler, I was forced during my most recent visit to take a slightly abbreviated tour of the two most recent collections on account of this family’s sheer multitude of bottlings, but it is clear from their 2008s that this remains one of the most frequently exciting – and generally consistent – sources of wine in Alsace, making it unfortunate that one doesn’t see Dirler-Cade wines more often in the U.S. Moreover, this is an estate that’s rendering highly distinctive; often deliciously unorthodox; but never fashion-pandering innovations while retaining a clear and constant vision of how the classic cepages of Alsace should perform in sites that can boast some of the longest – not to mention most-deserved – reputations of any in their region. All this having been noted, 2009 was a challenge even here: sometimes well-met, but seldom entirely surmounted. Rieslings were being harvested as early as mid-September, and Jean Dirler observes that had he cut back the crop on his Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer rather than allowing bunches to remain abundant, he would really have had a problem with sky-high potential alcohol. (For more on the Dirlers’ sites and methods, consult my reports on earlier vintages.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Pungent grapefruit rind and smoky, fusil, crushed stone notes in the nose of Dirler-Cade’s 2008 Riesling Kessler lead into a bright, invigorating, persistently juicy if texturally somewhat spare palate on which tart apple skin and sizzling citrus rind convey invigoration that extends into a penetratingly persistent finish I can feel creeping down my spine. There is a handsome sort of austerity and a remarkable alliance of density and energy likely to last for 15 or more years. What remains to be seen is whether further detail or a sense of charm will emerge.As usual chez Dirler, I was forced during my most recent visit to take a slightly abbreviated tour of the two most recent collections on account of this family’s sheer multitude of bottlings, but it is clear from their 2008s that this remains one of the most frequently exciting – and generally consistent – sources of wine in Alsace, making it unfortunate that one doesn’t see Dirler-Cade wines more often in the U.S. Moreover, this is an estate that’s rendering highly distinctive; often deliciously unorthodox; but never fashion-pandering innovations while retaining a clear and constant vision of how the classic cepages of Alsace should perform in sites that can boast some of the longest – not to mention most-deserved – reputations of any in their region. All this having been noted, 2009 was a challenge even here: sometimes well-met, but seldom entirely surmounted. Rieslings were being harvested as early as mid-September, and Jean Dirler observes that had he cut back the crop on his Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer rather than allowing bunches to remain abundant, he would really have had a problem with sky-high potential alcohol. (For more on the Dirlers’ sites and methods, consult my reports on earlier vintages.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185