A faint hint of mushroom stock shares the nose of Dirler-Cade's 2006 Riesling Kessler with thyme, lemon oil, and peach. Oily-textured and bright on the palate - with a sense of crushed stone suffusion - its acidity and extract keep 14 grams of residual sugar at bay, so that the net effect is a dry finish, rendered invigorating by citrus rind and brown spice impingement. As this opens, the note of mushroom recedes, remaining only as one element in an intriguing melange of herbal, mineral and fruit elements that should guarantee this 2006 is worth following for half a dozen years, if not longer. The 1991 vintage incorporated not entirely dissimilar challenges and was largely written off at the time as for short-term drinking, yet Dirler's top Rieslings demonstrated 15 years worth of potential. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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