Domaine Dirler-Cade Riesling Kessler, Alsace Grand Cru, France

凱德酒莊凱特勒雷司令半干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3805

Dirler's 50 year old vines in the -hot tub- (a literal translation) that lies in the center of this cru brought forth a 2007 Riesling Kessler Heisse Wanne analytically virtually indistinguishable from their other Kesseler Riesling bottling. The difference here - perhaps more than anything explained by this parcel's tiny-berried Riesling selection - is in greater refinement and complexity. Tangerine and lemon oils; sage and elder flower show the Muscat side of the grape and vintage both on the nose and on a pungent, bittersweet palate saturated with alkaline and crushed stone minerality. An underlying firmness is kept from austerity by a simultaneous sense of leesy richness (no doubt explicable in terms of this bottlings especially protracted fermentation). A long finish is tinged with fruit pit and invigoratingly tart intimations of huckleberry and Maine blueberry. This should be a joy to follow for 15 or more years, and almost certainly gain further complexity along the way. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

From parcels of this grand cru that border their Saering, Dirler's 2007 Riesling Kessler exhibits enhanced ripeness at 13.8% alcohol and discreet 9 grams residual sugar, and its entire personality is richer - though not more nuanced or refreshing - than that of its Saering and Kitterle siblings. Ripe apricot, oregano, sage, and tangerine zest - to that extent, another somewhat Muscat-like Riesling - it wears its imposing extract on its sleeve, and carpets the palate with lush fruit and alkalinity, leading to a finish of concentration and herbal and mineral pungency. I imagine that this best enjoyed over a 12-15 year period. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185