From parcels of this grand cru touching their Saering, Dirler-Cade’s 2005 Riesling Kessler features honey-glazed pear and yellow plum, displaying glycerin-richness and exceptional purity of fruit, nut oil richness, and the same remarkable cut, clarity, and wafting floral notes as the Heisse Wanne (picked, incidentally, on the same day) yet with even more elegance and lift. Irresistibly juicy and generous, yet complexly mineral and capable of rewarding two decades or more in bottle, this tastes nearly dry despite more than twenty grams of residual sugar. It should prove to be one of the benchmarks of its vintage and of the Dirlers’ formidable series of Kessler Riesling.So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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