I'm now convinced that Genevrieres is a better vineyard than Perrieres, says Rovani in offering a taste of the Remoissenet 2007 Meursault Genevrieres. Whether or not he intends it as evidence, this wine certainly does lend support to my hypothesis that its site was especially favored in the present vintage. Marzipan, toasted hazelnut, and honey in the nose lead to a palate of creamy texture, peachy richness, and with rich, low-toned nut and malt notes. The bit of toast and spice from barrel fits the personality of the wine, and suggestions of fruit pit bitterness offset the impression of sweetness of fruit. While this is unusually full and soft as well as almost roasted in character for a 2007, an element of vintage-typical lift and refreshment supports its persistent, succulent finish. I envision this as best enjoyed within the next 4-5 years, but there is no way of telling, and the new Remoissenet simply as to establish a track record over time.
The well-known if not always entirely venerable house of Remoissenet began a new life in 2005 when it was purchased by investors and wine lovers Edward and Howard Milstein of New York; merchant Todd Halpern of Toronto; and (with a minority share) Louis Jadot. The new owners installed Jadot veteran Bernard Repot as manager and Claudie Jobard as winemaker to oversee less a renovation of the facilities than the establishment from scratch of a new winery. With one major exception (Le Montrachet) the revived Remoissenet has depended on establishing new sources of supply, a project that – along with marketing – is being spearheaded by long-time Wine Advocate associate Pierre-Antoine Rovani. The emphasis will be on contract fruit or must – although Remoissenet still owns acreage of Pinot Noir vines in and around Beaune – and then very selectively. Remoissenet's substantial share of Montrachet alone offers them a unique opportunity not only to bargain with growers, but to establish a high market profile, and the quality of 2007s here – following on the heels of an impressively rich if occasionally overly woody and ponderous collection of 2006s – confirms this as a negociant to be reckoned with. The barrels used here, incidentally, are now split between 350 liter capacity and standard 225 liter barriques.
Importers include The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392-6995.
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