Diel characterizes the 2004 vintage as a “classic Spatlese year,” and, in fact, no facet of his current collection is any more formidable than the phalanx that follows. I admit it was hard to approach Diel’s 2004 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spatlese with an open mind and nostrils, given that site’s stellar performance thus far. I am compelled to report that all of the pure white peach fruit, creaminess of texture, elegance and poise of the Kabinett are enhanced with the effect of a light drizzle of honey and a dusting of piquant spice. Sheer density of “stuff” and ripeness of fruit are shown here to be compatible with ravishing delicacy. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300