Though it lacks the extensive finish and sensual nature of the Pittermannchen, the smoky gun-flint-scented 2003 Riesling Spatlese Dorsheimer Goldloch is a seductive light to medium-bodied wine. Seamless and soft, it exhibits opulent white fruit flavors in its straightforward, generous character. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. (Our European subscribers should note that Schlossgut Diel’s excellent multi-lingual website – www.schlossgut-diel.com – offers a 6-pack of these Spatlesen – shipping included – for the US equivalent of $124, less than half what we Americans must pay in our retail shops.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300