Domaine de la Rectorie Collioure Cote Montagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

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The Rectorie 2009 Collioure Cote Montagne is Carignan and Grenache, along with some Mourvedre, Syrah, and Counoise, from terraces - as its name suggests - in the appellation's mountainous interior. Ripe purple plum and black raspberry are infused with a peat-like smokiness, and overtones of blond tobacco and game add further intrigue to this cuvee thicker in texture than the corresponding Cote Mer but also a bit more tannic in finish. That said, this is impressively persistent and no doubt capable of delivering considerable satisfaction at table over the next several years. I did not visit Marc and Thierry Parce's Domaine de la Rectorie this year, though judging by the samples that came my way, that was clearly my mistake.Jack Siler Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 45 45 23 59