An icon wine of Sicily, Rosso del Conte is the Sassicaia of southern Italy because it opened the road for a quality-based revolution. This gorgeous blend (55% Nero d’Avola, 17% Perricone and 28% other mixed varieties) is soft, subtle and rich, with long-lasting tones of cherry and spice and well-extracted concentration. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 91