The nearly outstanding 1995 Vitiano (4,500 cases) is a sensational bargain. A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese, it exhibits an opaque purple color, a subtle influence of toasty oak from aging in small barriques, wonderful purity, a lush, chewy texture, medium body, and gobs of rich, smoky, chocolatey, blackcurrant, and cherry fruit. Drink this supple, explosively fruity, delicious wine over the next 3-4 years. Cotarella's highest achievements are to be found in his red wine portfolio. He has gone against the flow of modern day commercial winemaking. For example, he has (1) fought for lower yields, (2) harvested full physiologically mature fruit by hand, (3) utilized small barriques, and (4) bottled the wines with minimal clarification, frequently with no fining or filtration. The current offerings, some of the most exciting reds of Italy, emerge from a largely unknown wine region for reds, Umbria.This wine is from an estate owned by one of Italy's most renowned oenologists/winemakers, Riccardo Cotarella. One of the young geniuses that has revolutionized winemaking in Italy, Riccardo Cotarella is the spiritual equivalent of Michel Rolland in France. His brother, Renzo, is the chief winemaker for Piero Antinori. Cotarella's position with respect to white wines is to preserve their fruit, recognizing they should be fermented at low temperatures and bottled as early as possible.Kudos to Riccardo Cotarella for this extraordinary showing of just what brilliant quality can be achieved from the vineyards of Umbria. As I mentioned, Cotarella is the Michel Rolland of Italy. As with Rolland, whom readers of The Wine Advocate discovered long before he became known to the international wine press, I predict Cotarella will be gracing the cover of leading wine magazines over the next few years.Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869
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