You have to love the ’07 vintage. This is drinking beautifully right now, though official release (September) is still a ways off. Rich and delicious, full-bodied and aromatic, with exotic barrel scents and a lovely melange of chocolate, mocha, caramel and spice. But the fruit is the main story, and it’s full, ripe and substantial—cherry and cassis, licorice and just a hint of leaf.——P.G.(9/1/2010)—— 93