The 2009 Chablis Mont de Milieu is a broad, generous wine graced with generous fruit and a warm, open personality. White peaches, jasmine and hints of smoke wrap around the creamy, textured finish. This is quite pretty, but simple. Beginning with 2010, Mont de Milieu will become a Domaine wine, as Fevre has recently purchased this old-vines plot, which is being converted to biodynamic farming with the 2011 harvest. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019.
This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general, the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the premier and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the premier and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009 insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s are wines built on fruit best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity.
Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706
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