The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl represents a big step up in concentration and clarity from the corresponding generic Smaragd. Piquant in its citrus zest and fruit pit intensity, and positively stony in its minerality, this Riesling nevertheless offers juicy refreshment from pungent start to gripping finish. Faintly oily in texture and with impressive fullness, this wine proves Pichler’s thesis that this site and grape can take extended (in this case 30 hours of) skin contact. This should age nicely for 5-7 years. Rudi Pichler picked and vinified with his usual sensitivity, thereby achieving a surprisingly broad stylistic range, even though the total length of harvest was unusually short. Flowering here just escaped the period of intense June heat that led to a reduced crop at most Wachau addresses.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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