The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl, from chalk and marble terroir, is – in Pichler’s experience – usually open and expressive at an early stage, and this is no exception. Apple, peach, and ripe tomato aromas introduce a palate with salty, chalky, bracing mineral character along with generously juicy apply fruit, leading to an exuberant yet firmly mineral finish. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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