Riesling was so slow to ripen this year that some of Pichler’s contract growers who farm top-notch sites panicked and picked what ended up becoming a quite pleasant Steinfeder: not exactly what Pichler had in mind. Another oddity of the vintage is a 2004 Riesling Steinriegl that, as the absence of further modifiers suggests, is neither Federspiel nor Smaragd, but rather a blend of each. Smelling of distilled raspberry and sea salt, this medium-bodied Riesling offers bright, salt and red fruit character along with attractively floral notes on the palate and quite satisfying length. Frankly, what this might lack in complexity (of which there might well be more in another year) it makes up for in sheer verve and lip-smacking satisfaction. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700