The 2006 Paixar is 100% Mencia from 80+-year-old vines planted in slate. The wine is naturally fermented, aged for 16 months in new French oak, and bottled without filtration. A glass-staining opaque purple, it offers up a brooding, kinky bouquet filled with Asian spices, incense, black currant, plum, and black cherry. Elegant, silky-textured, and impeccably balanced, it comes off as an imaginary blend of Grand Cru Burgundy and Cote Rotie. Give this sexy effort 5-7 years of additional cellaring and drink it from 2015 to 2030. Importer: Aurelio Cabastrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343

This expressive red marries tenderness and intensity. Cherry, blackberry, mineral and chocolate flavors weave and build over supple tannins and lively acidity, then linger on the finish. Drink now through 2013. 460 cases made, 175 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Bierzo Select to Add

Having really liked this wine a couple of years ago, this vintage seems comparatively fierce and aggressive, which isn’t to say it isn’t hugely flavorful and aromatic. On the down side, it’s residue-heavy and tannic, with full extraction and tannic berry fruit. Tough as nails; maybe it just needs a couple of years to settle.——M.S.(6/1/2010)—— 88