Mortet's saturated black/purple-colored 1997 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs offers dense black fruit aromas. Extraordinarily sweet (from ripeness, not sugar) and expressive, this chewy, structured effort reveals flavors of asphalt, licorice, cherry syrup, and cassis liqueur. It is an exuberant wine, bursting at the seams with loads of fruit whose flavors admirably linger in its extensive finish. However, its somewhat firm backbone will require cellaring patience. Projected maturity: 2002-2007. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800.
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